Chin Introductions |
Chin Introductions
Introducing strange Chins to each other or adding a new Chin to an existing group can be quite problematic at times. Chins recognize each other by odour and often do not readily accept strangers. However,with patience and careful attention to proper introductory techniques, it is possible to have most Chins accept each other. Naturally, due to distinctive personality [should that be "animality" or "Chin-ality" ?] differences, there will always be some Chins [and animals] that will simply remain incompatible.
Gender Differences in compatibility |
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In the Chin world, it is the female which is more territorial and more likely to be fussy with respect to a new cage mate, regardless of gender. While female Chins are more aggressive than [most] males even during "normal" times, a female may become even more aggressive during pregnancy, especially during the latter stages. It is undoubtably true that hormonal changes mediates this behavioural change and it would seem to represent a desire for some space or privacy. This aggression can be directed at cagemates of either or both genders, including her own offspring from a previous litter. However, note that this doesn't happen with every family/colony, nor on every occasion, and does occur with mated pairs as well. In the line-breeding setups used by most ranchers, the male is usually excluded from her cage during late pregnancy to avoid having him being mauled or killed. [Realize that, in ranch setups, the cages are smaller, there is less room for both privacy and escape, and stress levels can be higher.]
We don't recommend introducing another Chin to any female Chin that still has young unweaned kits with her or is about to deliver: she will be over-protective.
With respect to having the females' cage near the males, opinions will vary. However, we have numerous all-female cages next to all-male cages over the years with no problems among the males.
Success Factors |
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Odour Acclimatizing Methods |
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For most pet owners, we recommend employing one of the following methods of acclimatizing Chins to each other's odour: the "cage-in-a-cage", the "close-confinement", and the "side-by-side-cage" methods.
The Initial Introduction |
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Once the above has occurred [it may take days, weeks or even months] , it is wise to have the initial meeting as a joint romp in NEUTRAL territory outside the cages rather than being placed together in one of their cages. Masking the odour by liberally spreading talcum powder or baby powder throughout the fur also facilitates such introductions. One can also dab a little Vick's Vapo-Rub, Eucalyptus oil, or men's cologne on the noses of both Chins to enhance the odour-masking effect. Above all, keep a sharp eye out for serious fighting. Minor tussling and short chases are normal during the first few hours.
The most important caveat here is the need to exercise PATIENCE and to make the introduction process as GRADUAL as necessary. Never try to rush the process or force them together. If incompatibilities arise, go back a step or two and repeat the process. Think in terms of weeks [or even months] rather than days when evaluating the success of the introductory process. Usually it is the failure to adhere to this that causes most introductions to fail. The above principles apply to female-female and male-female pairings as well.
Male-female Pairings |
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Putting 1 male with 2 [or more] females |
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If the males and the females are strangers to each other, then it is often better to keep the male away completely and try to get the females together first.
If a new female is being introduced to an existing male-female pair, you will need to do some juggling. One method would be to introduce the male to the new female, and switch him between two adjascent cages each day. When you think the two females are ready [ie., a couple weeks later] , mask their odours and release them into NEUTRAL territory. It is probably better to have the male out there with them at the same time: he will provide some necessary distraction.
Short conflicts may arise periodically in these small groups and is often a result of a dominant female reacting to estrous cycling in a subordinate. In such situations, the conflict will likely persist for about a week and may necessitate one of the individuals [ie., the dominant female] being removed for that time period. If serious conflicts persist among the remaining individuals, then there is the possibility of the victim being a "learned victim" as discussed below in "Persistent Victims" .
Putting 2 males with 1 female |
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Female Pairings and Groupings |
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Male Pairings and Groupings |
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With respect to having the females' cage near the males, opinions will vary. However, I have numerous all-female cages next to all-male cages with no problems among the males.
Putting 2 pairs of male Chins together |
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You can take several approaches for the initial run together in NEUTRAL territory. One is to simply "dump" all 4 together in neutral territory but one shouldn't be too sanguine about achieving success.
The other [especially if the first approach fails] is to take only one of each pair and let them run together. Then do the same with the other member of each pair. Then cross-switch. For example: with the two pairs,
Keep switching in this fashion from session to session. Hope this makes sense.
Integrating 2 colonies |
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One method is to rotate the two colonies between two adjascent cages for several weeks. However, this may not be sufficient to permit re-adjustment of the respective dominance hierarchies.
An alternative strategy is to use a third or even a fourth cage [keep all the cages beside each other] and mix some individuals from each colony into the extra cage(s). One would then rotate individuals through the extra cage(s) on a daily or semi-daily basis, However, with larger colonies, more cages may be required as the permutations become considerably more numerous.
This integration may take only one day OR several weeks OR many months OR NEVER. The greatest potential limitation is if several males and females are involved: there will most likely be consequent disputes over mating "access".
Male Re-introductions |
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The post-partum estrous period in female Chins is generally 24-72 hours in duration and begins as soon as the kits are born. To avoid immediate re-impregnation [aka "breedback"], many breeders remove the male for about a week, just to be on the safe side. Avoidance of breedback should be a consideration when the female has had several litters in succession or appears a bit "run down". In the latter case, the female may not [but not always] permit another pregnancy anyways [if she has sufficient space to avoid being "trapped" by the male].
A second consideration for removing the male during the female's post-partum estrous period is avoid having the kits accidently trampled if the male is overly persistent in his attentions towards her. Many owners attribute the deaths of kits in such situations to the male but, in reality, male Chins are very rarely aggressive towards their own kits
Male Chins make very good parents and should play a role in raising the kits, even during his week of enforced separation. You can put the male Chin in with his kits anytime. If you put the male in with his kits and at the same time permit the female to run about the room [to give her a break from the kits] for up to an hour, you will likely discover that the male will be a lot less persistent upon her return. Hopefully, he will continue to huddle with the kits! If it doesn't work, remove him and try it again each day. In the unlikely event the female becomes/stays quite aggressive, then you might have to keep the male away for another week or so.
Overall, there are usually few problems with returning the male once the female's post-partum estrous period has concluded or even for longer periods of separation [ie., weeks, months] .
Persistent Victims |
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One, albeit controversial, theory regarding this phenonmenon emerges from human psychological studies. Specifically, it concerns victims of bullying in schools [and workplaces, as well]. It has been observed that some individuals are always picked upon, even if they switch classrooms, schools, or even towns. Furthermore, their siblings are also picked upon in a similar manner. It has become apparent in these situations that the victims have acquired a set of behavioural traits and reactions [learned or otherwise] that are [usually unconsciously] perceived as "weakness" on the part of the bullies [and even by normally well-behaved individuals] and seem to encourage further attacks. These individuals tend to become hyper-sensitive in relatively innocuous situations and over-react, thereby perpetuating the cycle. Thus, they have become "learned victims". Successful intervention in this victimization cycle usually involves teaching the victims pro-active assertive behavioural patterns, and appropriate social skills in addition to boosting their self-confidence.
How does this relate to animals? Well, victims tend to be hyper-sensitive, and react in a defensive manner [ie., vocalizations, scurrying away, and later complete submissiveness, etc] that only seems to encourage further attacks. For example, have you ever noticed that some dogs will chase a running cat but not a stationary one? Among Chins, mild cases manifest themselves as gradual weight loss by subordinates and the provision of extra food bowls helps. In more serious cases, the victim will receive physical injuries and may in fact eventually be killed or die from stress.
One solution is to raise the victim separately for several months with the owner acting as a "surrogate" parent. The extra attention and the passage of time should bring about dramatic improvements in the victim's self-confidence and assertiveness.
Another solution is to create a new group by splitting the fighting group. Sometimes, it is a matter of mixing and matching them until new stable groups are formed. [Finally, although we urge caution, sometimes the bully and victim can form a good partnership if the other individuals are removed. Seems rather odd, but that may simply indicate that the original conflict was an adverse reaction to too many indivduals in one area.]
Fostering Kits |
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There are some time boundaries to observe when fostering kits. Specifically, the kit(s) of the foster mother should be within one week [two at most] of age of the kits to be fostered. If the age difference is much greater, the younger kits will be at a disadvantage in establishing their position in the social hierarchy.
Publication History |
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A wonderful Danish translation of this article "Sammensætning af chinchillaer" has been made by Bettina Hansen for the Chin Klubben http://klub.chin.dk . It was published in July, 2002 and can be viewed at http://klub.chin.dk/chinposten/2002-07/chinintroduction.html
ChinMania welcomes other language translations of this article. Please be sure to contact ChinMania at either ChinMania@gmail.com or ChinMania@gmail.com FIRST before you publish it.
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